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Aghia Sofia
Istanbul/Constantinople Norse Connection
Aghia Sofia across the Golden Horn, Istanbul
Istanbul,
is still Constantinople (“Constantinoupoli”: Constantine’s
City)or "Oi Polloi", “The City” to the Greeks. The Turkish name
derives from the old Greek name . Here too we can find traces
of our Norse Ancestors. In the old city, the great 9th
Century Byzantine cathedral of Aghia Sofia (Saint Sophia)
stands, firm, its great dome defying gravity. Now a museum, it
contains a Viking secret. Ascending to the gallery by a series of
ramps built inside the massive walls, and having passed through
the Empress’s private lodge, one can stand with one's hands on
the stone balcony.
Ramp to the Gallery
There, carved in the soft stone were names in runic characters,
one of which reads “Halfdan”, dated to the 9th
Century. This encouraged me to find out more. It seems Halfdan
was a member of the Varangian Guard, bodyguards to the Holy
Roman Emperor.
Halfdan in Runic Characters
More Viking Names
The Gallery where the Vikings stood
Just as our ancestors journeyed to the West, they also turned
South and East, arriving in the Black Sea and to Constantinople
through Russia’s river systems, and also through the
Mediterranean. The Eastern Vikings were known as the
Rus, and
they called
Constantinople “Myklegaard” meaning the
Great City.
A Rus attack in 860 was unsuccessful, the Greeks attributing their
success to a miracle resulting from the parading on the walls of
the robe of the Virgin Mary. Subsequently, the Rus, now turning
to Christianity, perhaps impressed at the effect of the robe,
sued for peace and then began trading, and entered into
Byzantine military service. This tradition continued for many
years, and many returned home wealthy as a result of their
service, either to Norway or even Iceland, where the
Laxdaela Saga
records that a
certain “Bolli
was in the raiment of peltries that the Garth-king had given
him: he had over all a cape of red scarlet; he was girded with
Footbiter, whose hilts were now gold-bedight, and his middle
wound about with gold : he had a gilded helm on his head; he
bare a red shield by his side, and drawn thereon a knight in
gold, the which he had won out in Micklegarth: he had also in
his hand an anlace, as is the wont of the Outlands. And
wheresoever they took guesting the women gave heed to nought
else than gazing on their display and proud bearing.
”
The last and best known member of the
Varangian Guard was Harald Hardrada,
who then became
King of Norway, and fell at
Stamford Bridge in
1066.
Photographs © Iain Laird 2013-2014
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